Scotland / Week 4

Ferry woes and a gale!

The day before we were due to leave the Isle of Arran, we heard an alarming rumor that the ferry was cancelled–and not just of for one day, but for two. This would cause a big disruption in our plans, as we had a non-refundable reservation for our next location, which was on the mainland, and we had no reservation at all on Arran if we needed to stay two more nights.

A phone call to the ferry office, however, calmed us. Yes, the ferry was being cancelled, but only starting in the afternoon. Fortunately, we had tickets for the morning run, which would be the last. We’ve always been uneasy about ferries, since we’ve experienced frequent disruptions with the Campobello Island one. Wind and weather, engine troubles–problems can come up any time. (That day, Arran’s ferries ended up making the national UK news; having both of its two ferries, which are over 40 years old and in desperate need of replacement, out of service inconvenienced many.)

That last ferry was packed due to two days’ worth of passengers having to be rescheduled. Once on the mainland, our driver, Chris, picked us up, and we headed for the art town of Kirkcudbright, at the south end of Scotland, via Portpatrick. Both of these are scenic villages, and we regret we didn’t spend more time in them. Next, we drove on to Berwick-upon-Tweed, to meet our new art friend, Jacqueline, and to say goodbye to Chris. (If you want an excellent guide who is a treasure house of history, I highly recommend Chris and Anter Scottish Tours.)

Berwick, the northernmost town in England, was a hotspot for the Medieval border wars between England and Scotland for 400 years. But though it last belonged to Scotland in 1482, it still has a strong Scottish bearing. In fact, back in 2008, there was a movement for the village to rejoin Scotland, but it failed.

Berwick is a painter's dream, sitting within a medieval wall that was reinforced and enlarged in Elizabethan times. Old buildings hedge in the picturesque streets, and scenic views of the River Thames and its three bridges abound. The painter, L.S. Lowry, loved Berwick and spent a great deal of time sketching its landscapes. And not far from here, the visual treats continue, with the cliffs and rocks of Howick and St Abb’s Head, plus Lindisfarne and castles in various states of ruin.

Despite a spate of rain and (again!) gale force winds, I’ve been able to get some work done. And we have a couple of days left with improving weather before heading to Edinburgh and our flight home, so I expect to do more. For now, I leave you with some images. The next time you hear from me, I’ll be back in Canada, but just for a few days, and then Trina and I start the long trip home to New Mexico.

Gouache sketches are all either 5x8 or 5x16. Click each thumbnail for a full view.